Kitchen Talk

Kitchen Talk
by Kristin Franklin

I work in a kitchen. Before I worked in a kitchen, I had absolutely no idea what it would be like. There are many important things I have learned or have come to appreciate, and I’m not talking about how to make reduction sauces or how to tourne vegetables.

I have organized this series in the same fashion as Thomas Keller’s new cookbook, Bouchon. Each chapter in this inspiring book begins with the phrase “The Importance of…,” which is then followed by such topics as “The Raw Bar” and “The Pig.” Here, in this multi-part article, I apply this idea to the kitchen in general and the important things within. Bear with me.

The Importance of Equipment

In a kitchen, equipment is often taken for granted. It is spilled upon with sticky substances. It is often used beyond its fullest potential, resulting in the use of masking tape, or even better, duct tape. Sometimes, equipment (such as 40-lb fat capacity deep fryer) catches on fire, a problem which unfortunately can’t be fixed with duct tape. In extreme cases such as this, the unthinkable has to happen: new equipment must be purchased, much to the demise of many a restaurant owner. Here is a tribute to certain essential pieces of equipment in the kitchen.

The Knife: Undoubtedly one of the single most useful tools in the kitchen. Although, I have once before heard of some Asian chef who refuses to use knives, thus processes organic substances, such as eggplant, with his hands only. But we’re not all that talented. So the knife, namely an eight- to ten-inch chef’s knife (a.k.a. French knife), when sharp, is a cook’s best friend. If the knife is dull, one might as well use their hands.
The Robot Coupe: In the fashion of Kleenex tissues and Saran Wrap plastic wrap, Robot Coupe has taken over the world of its kind (with Cuisinart taking a close second) to the point of actually being synonymous with the words “food processor.” Not just a noun, Robot Coupe can be used as a verb as well, as in “Should I Robot Coupe the pesto, or put it in the blender?” Or, “Just Robot Coupe the parmesan using the grater attachment.” Furthermore, Robot Coupe hardware can be temporarily repaired with duct tape. Wooden skewers also come in handy to extend the life of the tattered Robot Coupe; they can be used to push down the thing when the built-in push-down-thing is broken. Got it?
The Burr Mixer: The Burr Mixer is the industrial version of those small hand-held “stick” blenders used to make individual frappes or perhaps soy milk-shakes in the glass. In size and power, the Burr Mixer is about 10 of these stick blenders put together. The Burr Mixer is often orange or a stark gray in color, resembling a piece of equipment one may see on a construction site. When used, usually to make hefty amounts of pureed soups or sauces, one cannot help almost crying out “arr, arr, arr,” like Tim the Toolman Taylor from the re-runs of Home Improvement. Burr Mixer caution: refrain from using this tool to make mashed potatoes. Trust me.
The Ice Cream Machine: There is nothing like homemade ice cream. Especially when the pastry chef at the restaurant you’re working at makes flavors that contain homemade cookie dough, peanut butter and various types of alcohol such as Guinness and brandy. And there is nothing like a good egg-nog ice cream for the holidays and the weeks after. Or candy cane, made with real crushed candy canes. Oh yeah. So that’s why this piece of equipment is important. Because who doesn’t love delicious, free ice cream?
The Salamander (A.K.A. “Sally”): The Salamander is a giant self-contained broiler. The gas heating element, a ceiling which mystically lights up like the Alaskan winter sky during Aurora Borealis, sits above a shelf which holds the desired product to be warmed, cooked or gratineéd. This shelf can be manually moved closer or farther away from the heating element by way of a four-notched lever system on the side of the appliance. Nachos, warm plates, oysters Rockefeller, garlic bread, toasted coconut, melted cheese on a burger; you name it, the Salamander can do it. But the Sally is primarily a finisher; a plate usually hits the Sally just before it’s put into the sensitive hands of the server who gasps in pain almost every time despite the clear “Hot plate!” warning.
The Sharpie: A permanent marker in a cook’s pocket is like a security blanket; without it, the cook feels naked, like they’re missing a part of themselves. I estimate that I have gone through over 40 Sharpies (or Super Shapelys, the inexpensive black market Sharpie) due to misplacement and pilferage in my meager 2.5 year tenure as a cook. Why, you ask? What is so important about a permanent writing utensil in a kitchen? Labeling. The goal in the kitchen is to label and date every food item, raw or prepared, for many reasons which include: easy identification and access, indication of spoilage, and avoidance of mistaking corn starch for rat poison. Without a Sharpie, a cook must ask to borrow another’s, which isn’t guaranteed. If that doesn't work, he or she must scour the kitchen for fallen Sharpies, a huge time-waster.
Plastic Wrap: Although it’s not technically considered “equipment,” the versatility of plastic wrap in the kitchen is immeasurable. I’m not talking about the household stuff; restaurant wrap is big and sturdy and can be used to make a practical, disposable belt. (I’ve seen it once. Please see note.) Furthermore, small compact balls of plastic wrap prove an inexpensive alternative to drain plugs.

Note: To make a plastic wrap belt, go to Costco and purchase some heavy duty wrap that’s about as wide as your arm is long. Pull a good amount of wrap and cut on the serrated edge (be careful, it’s sharp). This next part is fun. Crumple the wrap into a long snake-like mess and, starting from the center, pull with both hands to stretch the “belt” into a longer snake-like neat rope. This action can be done in front of the body or even behind it, using one’s shoulders for extra stretching anchorage. Continue pulling outward until the belt is the desired length (excess can be fashioned into a headband or play-whip for the kids). A bow or simple knot is sufficient for fastening.

Recipe: Robot Coupe Basil Pesto

If one is lucky enough to own a Robot Coupe food processor, this basil pesto recipe is a snap. Alternatively, a good bar blender or Cuisinart will work just fine.

Ingredients

3 T. pine nuts, toasted
2 T. Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese
Juice of half a lemon
1-2 cloves garlic
Sea or Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Enough good olive oil to cover the blade
Heaping 1 cup packed basil leaves, very green
Heaping ½ cup Italian parsley leaves (avoid stems; they will become stringy)
More good olive oil
Ice water to stand by

Method

Add pine nuts, cheese, lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil (to cover blade) to the Robot Coupe. Whir and pulse until a sort of chunky paste is formed. Add the herbs (basil and parsley) in a few batches, pulsing between each addition. A little more olive oil or a few drops of ice water (no ice, please) may need to be added while whirring to encourage amalgamation. Taste; make seasoning adjustments with salt, pepper and lemon juice if needed.

Alternative Ingredients

It can be fun to change the herbs, nuts, acid and oils. Try cilantro and parsley with peanuts, lime juice and peanut oil (omit parmesan). How about arugula and spinach leaves with parmesan, lemon juice, hazelnuts and nutmeg? Or maybe parsley, Manchego cheese and toasted almonds with a drop of good sherry vinegar and Spanish olive oil? The possibilities are endless!

Kristin can be reached at kristin@babblog.com.